The
Acropolis of
Athens
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What would a visit to Greece be
without going to the Acropolis?
You can take a tour or wander up
there yourself but during the
summer, whatever you do, unless it
is overcast, go early or late in
the day. It can get very hot up
there and gasping for breath can
take way from your ability to
marvel at the greatest of all
archaeological
sites.
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After
climbing the steps you are at the
entrance, or the Propylaea, which
was completed in 432. Constructed
in 432 just before the outbreak of
the Peloponnesian wars the main
architect was Mnesicles, a
colleague of Phidias. To your left
is the Pinacotheca and a
Hellenistic pedestal and on the
right the tiny temple to Nike
Athena or the Athena of Victory
which commemorates the Athenians
victory over the Persians.
Supposedly this is the place where
King Aegeus threw himself into the
sea because he thought his son
Theseus had been killed by the
Minotaur. But if this is the point
he chose to jump into the Aegean
then how good a king could he have
been? The sea is miles away. If
you looking from the propylaea
towards Pireaus on a clear day you
can see ships waiting outside the
port of Pireaus, the islands and
the mountains of the Peloponessos
beyond. |
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The
Parthenon and other main
buildings on the Acropolis
were built by Pericles in the
fifth century BC as a monument
to the cultural and political
achievements of the
inhabitants of Athens. The
term
acropolis
means
upper city and many of the
city states of ancient Greece
are built around an acropolis
where the inhabitants can go
as a place of refuge in times
of invasion. It's for this
reason that the most sacred
buildings are usually on the
acropolis. It's the safest
most secure place in town. As
little as 150 years ago there
were still dwellings on the
Acropolis of Athens.
The best time to go up there
is the spring when even this
stone mountain is not immune
to the proliferation of grass
and wildflowers which seem to
burst from every crack. |
The
Erecthion sits on the most
sacred site of the Acropolis
where Poseidon and Athena had
their contest over who would
be the Patron of the city.
Poseidon thrust his trident
into the rock and a spring
burst forth, while Athena
touched the ground with a
spear and an olive tree grew.
Athena was declared the victor
and the great city of Athens
was named for her while
Poseidon was given a small
village in Syros after it was
discovered he had merely
ruptured a water main. (not
really).The building itself
contains the porch of the
maidens or Caryatids which are
now copies, four of which have
been placed in the Acropolis
museum, hopefully to be
reunited with a fifth taken
from the Acropolis by Lord
Elgin and put in the British
Museum more than a century
ago. |
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Even
having seen a thousand photographs
one is still not prepared for the
immensity of the Parthenon. The
building was designed by the
architects Kallikrates and Iktinos
as the home of the giant statue of
Athena. It took 15 years to build
and was completed in 438 BC and is
probably the most recognizable
structure in the world next to the
golden arches of McDonalds. From a
temple it became a church, a
mosque and finally as a storage
facility for Turkish gunpowder. In
1687 the Venetians bombarded it
from below. A cannon ball hit the
gun powder and blew it
up.
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A
question in my mind is why not
rebuild the Parthenon to it's
former glory? It is not as if the
destruction of it is sacred
history that must be preserved, in
fact the 300 years since the
explosion is a relatively short
time-span in the history of the
building. Much of the Parthenon
has been taken apart and put back
together with pieces being
replaced or clamped to
remedy the wear and tear of
centuries, in particular the last
20 or so years of air pollution.
As it stands now, though it is a
tribute to the glorious past and
the achievement of the Ancient
Athenians it is also at the same
time a reminder that whatever is
good in man is eventually overcome
by ignorance, war and a hunger for
domination. I say rebuild the
entire Acropolis as an inspiration
that whatever is wrong with the
world can be righted. (Until some
idiot blows it up again). |
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My
favorite spot is at the flag where
Athens stretches out endlessly
below. You can see the Plaka
beneath you, the temple of
Olympian Zeus and the Olympic
stadium nestled in a pine covered
hill, an island of green in a sea
of concrete. From the other
side of the Acropolis you can see
the Aegean and the ferries leaving
for the islands. When it is clear
you can see all the way to the
Peloponessos. |
If you stand by the flag and look
to your left you will see Mount
Lycabettos rising from the
neighborhood of
Kolonaki
, with
the Hilton and the Athens Tower at
Ambelokipi in the distance. The
large green area is the National
gardens. The Acropolis is a great
place to get your bearings in
Athens. You can see as far as
Kifissia on a clear day.
When the
Germans occupied Athens in WWII, the Evzone who guarded
the Greek flag which flew from the Acropolis, was ordered
by the Nazis to remove it. He calmly took it down, wrapped
himself in it and jumped to his death.
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The
plaque by the flag commemorates Manolis
Glezos and Apostolis Santas, the two eighteen
year-old heroes who
tore down the Nazi flag flying
from the Acropolis on the night
of May 30th, 1941.
It is of particular interest
because these names are known
not only by Greeks, but by
many Europeans, because this
act of courage and
resistance to Nazi oppression
was an inspiration to all
subjected people. Later through reading
the book
Athens:The City by John
Tomkinson I found out that
Glezos, who became a member of
the Greek resistance, was
condemned to death for treason
in 1948 and imprisoned for
being a communist. He was later
elected a member of the Panhellenic Socialist Party (PASOK).
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Below
the Acropolis is the theater
of Herod Atticus built by the
Romans in 161 AD and
still used today for classical
concerts, ballet, performances
of high cultural value and
Yanni. Further on is the
Theater of Dionysious the
first stone theater and home
to Sophocles, Aeschylus,
Euripides and Aristophanes. It
was rebuilt around 342 BC by
Lykourgos and then enlarged by
the Romans to be used for
gladiator fights. |
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Below
the Acropolis is the rock of
Areopagos or what we called in
high school 'Blow Hill'.
(Don't ask). The steps are
very slippery so be careful as
you climb them, but once you
do you won't want to come down
(unless it is 100 degrees).
You have a great view of the
Agora, the Plaka, Monastiraki,
Omonia and much of Athens.
Great place to watch the
sunset. Or come up at night
with a bottle of wine and your
true love, and watch the
lights of the city. This is
where Saint Paul spoke to the
people of Athens in AD 51 and
the tablet imbedded in
the stone contains his
words. There is a cleft in the
rock at the bottom of the hill
that is a shrine to the
Furies. |
Afterwards,
continue back around the Acropolis
and down the hill into the
Ancient Agora below. Part of it is
free and you can go through it to
get back to Adrianou Street, or
you can pay the entrance fee and
walk the streets of ancient
Athens. If you decide to hang out
awhile in the ancient Agora take a
look at the rebuilt Stoa of
Attalos, now a museum which
features many of the every day
items found in the area |
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. The
small temple known as the Thission
was built in 449 BC and is
virtually intact. Supposedly named
for Theseus because his exploits
were shown on the frieze, it is
now believed that it was actually
a temple to Hephaestos and Athena.
Unfortunately they realized their
mistake too late and the entire
neighborhood is called Thission.
The temple was used as a Church,
dedicated to Saint George, known
as Saint George the Lazy
because it was only open one day
of the year. |
You may notice at the entrance to
the Acropolis and the paths
leading up to it the licensed
guides who for around 30 Euros or
so, will give you a tour so that
you may leave the area more
informed then when you got here.
Among them is Teresa Mitsopoulou,
an Archaeologist and writer of
some renown. Several of her books
are considered controversial by
her fellow archaeologists because
they seem to prove a link between
Chinese and Ancient Greek culture
that if correct could change much
of what we believe about the past.
Theresa works as a guide on the
Acropolis and a tour with her may
have you questioning the past as
well. She speaks 7 languages
including
Chinese. |
See
Theresa's website at
www.greecetravel.com/archaeology/mitsopoulou |
Thanks to Coleen for
some of the Parthenon
Pictures.
The Elgin Marbles: What's the Big
Deal?
No doubt you have heard of the controversy
surrounding the Elgin Marbles. These are the
choice pieces of the frieze on the Parthenon, one
of the maidens from the Erechthion and many other
artifacts which were 'sold' to the British Lord
Elgin by the Turks who were occupying
Greece. They are now in the British Museum for
'safe keeping' though the Greek Government, the
Greek people and just about everyone else in the
world with the exception of the British government
believe that they should be returned. To put a
contemporary face on the situation if someone
broke into your house, held you hostage and sold
your Picasso collection to your neighbor you would
expect your neighbor to return it. In this case
the neighbor says "No, these are mine. I bought
them."
But nothing is ever black and white so visit my
website on
Lord Elgin and the Parthenon Marbles
which also
includes more details on the history of the
Acropolis and some great photos.
Be sure to sign the petition that is usually on
display at a table in the Plaka.
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