Coffee in Athens

Cafes, Espresso, Greek Coffee and Frappe

There was a time I didn't drink coffee. I can still sort of remember it. The sun still came up in the morning. The birds still sang. Little children played in the park. Then I met Andrea Jerome. She was a coffee fanatic . She had to be coaxed from the bed with quadruple espressos and inspired to keep working with semi-hourly installments. I thought I could cure her. Guess what. Now I am just as bad. Yes, the sun still comes up, the birds still sing and children still play in the park. But not until I have had my first cup of coffee.

It used to be that going to Greece was a step back to the stone age as far as coffee went. We could drink a Greek coffee, you know the stuff they used to call Turkish coffee until 1974 when the Turks invaded Cyprus and even the harbor of Turkolimino became Microlimino. But Greek coffee has to be made right and there was a period when many places that served it, with the exception of the most die-hard old men cafeneon, did not put that much care into it. Plus, drinking it takes time. You literally have to wait for the dust to settle and you can only drink it to a certain point. Any further and you are chewing coffee. Yeah it can get you off and that is, after all, our intention. But the cups are so small and my lips and appetite so big that there is a psychological factor that makes it less satisfying for me in the morning. Afternoon is a different story and after early ouzo with the rest of a long day ahead, a well-made Greek coffee can't be beat.

Frappe's are the lifeblood of Greek society. Made with instant Nescafe mixed with milk, water lots of sugar and ice, a frappe will provide you with a chemical buzz like caffeine only more intense and under it's effects you are likely to have very profound thoughts as the dust is shaken off synapses long retired from duty. The Greeks drink these all day and never leave the cafes. Maybe the reason so much wine and whisky is consumed in Greece is directly related to the frappe consumption. But there is something decadent about starting the day with a frappe rather than a cup of coffee. So you have hot Nescafe. Same nervous buzz, but for me that means doing the Greek equivalent of the 3 martini lunch, the one carafaki ouzo mesimeri.

Yes things were tough for us in the old days. We used to bring our coffee with us, ground in sealed bags which took up valuable luggage space along with our mini espresso maker and gas burner. But you never knew if you were going to be able to find a decent cup of coffee and we had to be prepared. Who wants to be in the most beautiful country in the world feeling shitty?

There were places you could find an espresso. The Grande Bretagne Hotel and a couple of the very fancy cafes and restaurants. But just because they were expensive did not mean they were going to be any good. And who wants to drink coffee in a place where you feel uncomfortable if you did not bring your own butler and chauffeur?

But there is more. This is something I invented many years ago and I think it is delicious. But in 15 years of attempts I have only been able to convince one of my American friends, Steve Gratz, to try it. And even with his testimony combined with mine, I can't convince any of my Greek friends that this is one if the greatest and most practical drinks on the planet. I called it Frapouzo . You order a frap pe me ga la, meh trio , which is an iced Nescafe with milk and sugar ( meh trio means one-to-one but implies not too sweet which in Greece is pretty sweet. Skeh to means no sugar. Glee ka means sweet but to me is virtually un-drinkable). You also order an ouzo skeh-to. As soon as the waitor turns his back pour the ouzo into the frappe. You won't believe how good it tastes and the feeling is not bad either. If you are feeling low and don't want to waste precious vacation time being depressed, one or two of these will do the trick. Any more and you are on your own. Note: Lonely Planet liked my Frapouzo so much they put it in their World Food-Greece book (but they spelled my name wrong and messed up the name of my website.)

So we may as well face that some of us are seriously hooked on coffee and the thought of going somewhere that good, strong coffee is not available fills us with a kind of angst. Maybe once we were strong, independent and caffeine free, but now we must face the fact that a good strong cup of coffee is required to motivate us to experience the wonders that Greece has to offer. We can always take the steps to quitting our addiction when we return home where we have familiar surroundings and plenty of psychiatrists to get us through those first difficult weeks, months or years. But to quit drinking coffee in Greece is like trying to quit smoking in Greece, or giving up food and sunlight. In Greece we drink coffee. And there is plenty of coffee for everyone.

Athens is loaded with coffee shops. These are some of my favorites...

The Diorofo is in the City Market on the corner of Aiolou and Evripidou streets. It is in an old neo-classic mansion of which the downstairs is a cafe and upstairs is a restaurant. They even have a big screen that shows the ever-falling Greek stock market and probably for that reason they have a bar too. But I sit outside and watch the people walk by on Aiolou which is one of the main pedestrian streets of Athens. This is one of my primary hangouts because it is the closest good coffee to the Hotel Attalos. Andrea's favorite cafes is Eliasporo (also known as Katerina's, the name of the owner) in Psiri on the corner of Maoulis and Palados at Iroon Square. Convenient because it is also an ouzerie with great mezedes so you can spend the whole day there. Also try the traditional zacharo plasteion (sweet shop) right across the street from the Taverna Psiri on Ag Nikolaos Street which is one of the streets that connects to the square. Coco Cafe is a bargain for espresso lovers in the same building as the Lesvos Shop on Athinas Street next to the Hotel Attalos. They now have tables and chairs right out on Athinas street a great place to people watch if you want to see the real Athinians. Check out Athina 122 (I think thats the number) also across from the Attalos. Its owned by a retired Greek-American from Boston and though it has the ambience of a pretzel shop at the local mall, he has good and inexpensive coffee.

Another great place is the Terina where Adrianou street meets Kapni Karea at the small Platia by Hadrian's wall.  Lots of different kinds of coffee and a huge international menu and the interior is beautifully decorated. You can sit in the square outside when it is sunny and warm. The owner also has the traditional fish tavern Psaras. Like Psaras Terina is high quality and very professional. Also the cafe called Kapni Karea Hristopoulou street (alley actually) between Ermou and Metropolis street right by the small Church of Kapni Karea. If you stay there long enough in the afternoon people arrive for ouzo, mezedes and live rembetika music. My wife likes the Cafe Central which is a big Parisian style cafe on Metropolis street right next to the main cathedral, the one that has been under scaffolding for the last twenty years.

The Cafe Dioscouri is at 39 Andrianou right in the flea market. If you are going to the Sunday market come here early because it fills up. They make excellent coffee and it is a good spot to watch the people go by. If you are coming from the Plaka you will have to go around Hadrian's Library to get there since Andrianou comes to an end and begins on the other side. This is a great place to watch people on Sunday. It gets crowded so you have to come early. Even if it is there are half a dozen or more cafes on the street overlooking the Stoa of Attalos and the Ancient Agora. In terms of view, people-watching and finding good coffee this is the best street in Athens. My favorite hangout in the winter was Diodos which is a cafe-ouzerie right across the street from the entrance to the Ancient Agora on lower Adrianou street. Very friendly service and good espresso and other coffees. Another one of those places that you can come for a coffee pick-me-up in the afternoon and make the gentle transition to ouzo and meze and hang out for the next 6 or 7 hours. They have dinner too. Look for the most traditional chairs and tables and thats the place.

At Fokinos Negri in Kypseli there are dozens of cafes, one after the other and in the afternoon they are crowded with people. Some of the cafes are for old people and some for young. The most popular cafes can have a couple hundred tables and are always packed at any time of the day. Though most people sit outdoors some of the interiors of these cafes are spectacular and it seems like they try to out-do each other to have the cleanest and most interesting restrooms. It also seems that they change the furniture and decor every year which gives you an idea of how much money is to be made in the cafe business. The street itself is a big pedestrian mall, like a park that goes on for several blocks. There are some good restaurants here too. Try the Foibos Cafe at #19 which is a small un-pretentious place across the park from most of the larger cafes. They play classical music and jazz and are owned by a very nice Greek-Australian woman named Julia and her two sons. If you take the #2, 4 or 9 trolley from the top of Syntagma in front of the park, going towards Omonia you get off at Platia Kypseli and walk down. You can walk there from the Archaeological Museum up Patission street and make a right on Agia Melitiou and left on Drossopoulou. I love Fokinos Negri. Its the kind of area that people go to Paris for and it is right here in central Athens.

When you climb to the top of a mountain and there is a coffee shop there that overlooks all of Athens, does it really matter how good the coffee is? I would have loved to have sampled an espresso but after climbing Lykavettos I did not want to risk having a heart attack so I will let you be the judge as to whether the cafe belongs on the same page as these others. From the cafe you can see the Acropolis and all of Athens and even the ships leaving Pireaus for the islands. You don't have to climb the mountain if you don't want to. The Funicular is a train that goes up and down the mountain and you can catch it at the top of Ploutarchou Street. Walk down. It is easy and good exercise.

On the other side of the coin the fast food place on the corner of Ermou and Athinas, though lacking in atmosphere, actually make their Greek coffee the old style...in hot sand!

Just down the street from Byzantino restaurant in the Plaka is a wonderful breakfast place on the corner of Geronda and Daedelou, just a block from the square. It is called Tristrato and it is run by a middle aged gentleman and his daughter, or maybe it's his wife, or his sister, or just someone who works there. Or maybe he works for her since her name is on the card. I don't really know or care and neither should you. But it is a lovely traditional galatadiko which is a milk and pastry shop. Great yogurt which you can get with fruit, nuts, honey or all of the above. Lots of different coffees and pastries and the whole place is furnished in antiques.

  There are cafes all over Athens. Anywhere there is a square or a space on the street to fit a few tables you will find a cafe, cafe-bar or cafeneon. Some other places to hang out and enjoy a coffee or a drink and watch life are Thission, the cafe in the national Gardens, Zappion, the path to the Acropolis, and any of the major public squares with the exception of Monastiraki and Omonia which for the time being are construction sites. Half the major avenues downtown are being converted into pedestrian streets and that means even more cafes. In a country like Greece where the climate is prefectly suited for hanging out and drinking coffee there can never be enough cafes. I almost forgot to mention. There are now a couple Starbucks in Athens and I am sure there will be more. It's like bringing coals to Newcastle but if you are one of those people who refuse to visit a country that does not have a Starbucks then you are in luck. To be honest with you I LOVE Starbucks Frappuccino. It's like a milkshake with a buzz and is tough to beat on a hot day in Athens. For inexpensive but decent espresso, capuccino, latte, fredo etc check out the Grigoris chain which are all over the city and even on some of the ferry boats. They also have spanakopita, tiropita, and lots of other pitas and sandwiches as well as traditional Greek coffee. The Flo-cafe chain also has cheap coffee drinks and they are everywhere.

See also Breakfast in Athens

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