You don't have to
get on a ferry boat to the Greek islands to enjoy
swimming in the Aegean Sea. Athens has a string
of beaches which begins in Pireaus, known as The
Apollo Coast and like any city the further you
get out of town the better the beaches
are.
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While there are people who
do swim in Pireaus and Faliron, I don't, (though
it probably won't kill you, at least not right
away). This does not mean that I wouldn't if it
was a really hot day and I did not have the
energy to get further out. I have been swimming
in worse places than the city beaches of Athens
and I have lived to tell about it though I was
too young to know any better. But in general if
you want to play it safe and enjoy the best
beaches Athens has to offer you should begin with
the Kavouri-Vouliagmeni area and find the beach
most suited to you between there and Sounion. But
honestly the seas close to Athens have become a
lot cleaner and if you happen to be staying in
Faliron or even in Pireaus there is no reason not
to go for a swim. Just don't swim in the harbor.
Not just because it is dirty but you don't want
to get run over by a ferry. The best thing about
staying in Pireaus,
Faliron, Kalamaki, Glyfada and Voula
is that you have a number of
easy options for getting into Athens which is
between 15 minutes and half an hour by bus, tram,
metro or taxi or a combination.
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If you want to stay in a
hotel convenient to Athens but still on the beach
then probably a resort hotel like the
Divani Apollo Palace
or the Astir
Palace Hotel are
good choices and just an hour from the city. They
are expensive but it is almost like being on an
island except you are so close to Athens that you
can see it. There are other hotels in the area of
varying prices and quality, most of them across
the street from the beaches in suburban
neighborhoods which is a good thing because you
have easy access to shops and restaurants. For
those who want to go all out, another 15 minutes
by car is the Grand
Resort Lagonissi with the Sunset Suites costing about
2774 euros a night, though a normal Deluxe room
with a view of the bay a mere 312 euros a night.
But if you stay here you have already saved the
cost of the ferry to an island. See
Athens Coast Hotels
for many more
choices.
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Athens has several very
nice pay beaches on its southwest coast, starting
at Glyfada and ending in Varkiza. These
beaches have cabanas, snack bars, showers, cafes,
restaurants and everything you need to not be
bored at the beach. Between the very popular
pay beach of Vouliagmeni and the next town which
is Varkiza, are The Coves where
you park your car at the top and walk down to
some small pebble beaches and flat rocks, which
are like finding somewhere remote on an island,
except for the hundreds of young people who come
on weekends and in the summer because it is free,
pretty clean, great for snorkling and because
some people just don't like sand. But if you come
on a nice weekday in the off-season, which is
anytime that is not July or August you should
have a cove to yourself if you like, or at least
a flat rock or two.
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Depending on the wind and other
variables some beaches are popular with
wind-surfers, mostly between
Saronida and
Anavissos. Anavissos has a long
open beach and lots of fish tavernas and is a
favorite place for Athenians during the weekends
and especially on Sunday. There are a few small
scattered beaches between Anavissos and
Sounion. In Sounion there is a small beach below the temple
with two tavernas and the Aegeon Beach
Hotel, another
alternative to going to the islands. What more
could you want? A beach, ancient temple and 2
tavernas. Between Sounion and Lavrion are a
number of tiny coves and beaches but the problem
is finding them. If you have a car you will see
signs but if you have come on the KTEL bus forget
it. Stick with Sounion or any beach you pass on
the way there that looks nice to you.
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The adventurous can
continue on to Daskalio which
has a few nice little fish tavernas
close to two sandy beach coves though you will
need a car to go here. I usually go straight from
the airport when I arrive in Greece, rather then
straight into Athens, to get my Aegean Sea fix
and a nice meal. George the
Famous Taxi Driver picks me up at the airport and I ask
him to bring a towel for me (no charge). The best
restaurant is Litsa's which is in the small port
near the beach, and also Kosta's a few steps
away. There are some tavernas closer to the beach
as well but i have not eaten at them.
Daskalio is more easily reached from
Athens if you take the Attiki Odos (National Road
of Attika) and go past Markopoulo and look for
the signs when you get to Keratea that will lead
off to the left. There is also a beach at Kakis
Thalassa, a little further on.
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The beaches
at Avlaki, Porto Rafti, Loutsa and Rafina, all
pretty well built up now and surrounded by
apartment buildings and summer houses, all the
way to the beaches of Nea Makri. But the long
beach at Schinias is one of the
nicest in Greece and looks more like something
you would see in Halkidiki than what you would
expect to find this close to Athens. It is a long
sandy beach that faces south and there is a large
pine forest that goes to just a few feet of the
sea so there is plenty of shade to park your car,
have a picnic, or pitch a tent (you can't
stay overnight). There are also several fish
tavernas on the beach and some fish and meat
tavernas inland on the road. It can get very busy
in July and August but it is a very long
beach.
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There are plenty of
beaches beyond Schinias as you work your way north
up the coast and the further you get the more it
will seem like a Greek island to you. There is a
small cove and beach at Agia Marina near Ancient
Ramnous where you can even take the small ferry to
Styrra in Evia. You can continue going north to
beaches at Agios Dimitrios, Kalamou and go all the
way to Oropos where you can take the ferry to
Eretria, also in Evia. But as long as you are doing
all this driving I suggest a drive to Porto
Germanos which has an amazing beach on the
Corinthian Gulf that really feels like you are on a
Greek island. You can get here by KTEL bus or by
driving to Elefsina and turning off at the road to
Thebes. The ancient city of Egosthena is there too,
one of the most impressive archaeological sites
that you have most likely never heard of.
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General
Athens Beach Information
As I mentioned previously
pay beaches like
Vouliagmeni, run by EOT,
(Greece's National Tourist Organization) charge
admission and offer changing cabins, self-service
restaurants, tennis courts, basket-ball and
volleyball pitches, children’s playgrounds,
canoes and pedal canoes for hire. Other public
beaches run by EOT are in Paleo Faliro, Alimos,
Glyfada, Voula, Varkiza, Alcyoni, and Lagonissi
and I believe Avlaki.
The best way to go to the
beaches of Attika are by car, either a rental or
get together with some friends and book a taxi
for the day. As for public transportation the
Coastal Tram goes as far as Voula. From there you
can take the 122 which goes along the coast as
far as Saronida. A faster way is to take the
metro to Ellinikon and catch the 122
there.
The yellow Attika buses
leave from Areos Park, (near Platia Egyptos where
Alexandras Ave meets 28-October Patission Street)
and will take you to Agia Marina, Anavissos,
Lagonissi, Sounion and Lavrion as well as to the
beaches on the other side of Attika like Rafina,
Porto Rafti, Marathon, Schinias and Oropos. You
can also take the metro to Glyfada and take a
taxi or a local bus from there to one of the
beaches.
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If all this sounds like too
much you can always get on the metro to Pireaus,
get on a ferry and be in
Aegina
or
Angistri
in about an hour.
These photos below are
mostly from a trip I took to Lavrion to catch the
ferry to Kea with my friend Christos, who works
with George the Famous Taxi Driver. Christos is
an avid diver and sea person and we had plenty of
time before the boat left so he showed me just
about every beach on the way. If you are going to
be in Athens and want to do some snorkling you
can contact George and you can make an
afternoon of it. In fact there is no reason to
limit yourself to Attika because there are great
places to dive within a couple hours of Athens by
car.
In the meantime these are
the photos I took with him.Just click on the
photos to see them full size with my
comments.
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Pireaus
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Voula
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Kavouri
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Vouliagmeni
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Astir
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Vouliagmeni
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Vouliagmeni
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Vouliagmeni
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Vouliagmeni
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Varkiza Coves
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Varkiza Coves
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Varkiza
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Varkiza
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Agia Marina
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Lagonisi
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Lagonisi
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Saronida
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Anavissos
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Anavissos
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Thimari
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Thimari
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Sounion
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Lavrion
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Loutsa
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Nea Makri
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Faliron
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Schinias
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Schinias
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Avlaki
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Avlaki
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Vavrona
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Mati
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Agia Marina
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Oropos
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Oropos
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Kalamos
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Porto Germanos
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Porto Germanos
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Porto Germanos
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