Often overlooked by the average tourist, simply
because it is not yet ingrained in the visitor’s
mind frame of
Athens
, Psyrri is a treasure trove for seekers of all
kinds of pleasure. “Where’s THAT?” is the often
heard, disquiet-laced response when the existence
and brief description of this area is mentioned
even to returning vacationers. Located a ten
minutes walk away from the by now
ludicrously-priced, deteriorated-quality districts
of Monastiraki and Plaka, Psyrri is constantly
growing into a refreshingly hip alternative to the
cheesier aspects of Athens nightlife. There, one
can live the surreal circus experience of crossing
paths with every kind of individual, from
prominent politicians and artists to shot-slugging
students; there is something for everyone, yet it
never ceases to feel like The Place To Be.
“Psyrri used to be a run-down area where during
the day you could find any variety of specialized
industry – from those selling an endless choice of
screws to hat factories – and during the night it
transformed into a bordello wasteland,” says Nikos
Kondoprias, who runs the stylish and successful
Epistrofi Gallery in the area. “But today it has
become an exclusive hub of ethnic, Greek and
themed restaurants, trendy and alternative bars
and clubs, prominent art galleries and theatres
and delightfully unusual shops.” Kondoprias, who
has set up the popular and practical Psyrri Online
website (www. Psyrri.gr) has become something like
the mayor of Psyrri, often approached for advice,
assistance and collaboration by all of the area’s
businessmen and residents. His knowledge and
expertise on the area, apart from being valuable
and interesting, is also exemplary of how the
Psyrri bug can easily transmit from one enthusiast
to the next. Most impressive of all is how Psyrri
businesses stick together rather than compete.
Owners and managers share a united vision of how
to keep the quality high and how to keep bettering
what’s already there, rather than isolating
themselves from each other.
Called “the Soho of Athens”, Psyrri can be a place
to spend an entire day in, but even an evening
there can begin at
six pm
and effortlessly continue until
six
am
. Visitors – alone or with any size company – can
start off by enjoying a glass of ouzo or wine
customarily accompanied by a ‘pikilia’ (a small
variety of starters) at one of the
traditional-style ouzeries such as the
Rebekkas,
ouzing with off-beat
charm. One can then glide around a couple
of galleries (suggestions below) or small
museums, like the unique
Gramophone
Museum
.
After receiving a cultural overdose, one can deal
with those noisy stomach rumblings by choosing
among a huge array of restaurants: fun restaurants
(
Multi Culti,
Vanilla
), or ethnic/international cuisine with matching
décor and music (often with live DJ or band),
like
Godzilla
or plush
Red
Marrakech
. Certainly Psyrri isn’t lacking in Greek food
(Mediterranean fusion, traditional, regional)
found in varieties as wide as
Taki
13
, offering homemade traditional fare to
Psipsina
, mezedopoleia (like the ouzerie, offering a
colourful variety of Greek starter dishes, as well
as some basic main courses) such as
Zeidoron
, Beer
(
Zithos
) and Wine
(
Fasoli
) restaurants, and a multitude of bar-restaurants
(cool Gay hangout
Bee
, or Thai influenced
Bar Guru
Bar
).
After dinner, one can begin the bar- and
club-hopping adventure, or even get lost in time
and space in one drinking or dancing den alone.
Again, there’s a grand choice of locales – one can
start off sipping the first cocktail along to
global funk at
Thirio
and end up letting loose to salsa at
Kouzina Cine
Psyrri
’s live Cuban band, having already rubbed
shoulders with local celebrities at one of the
most à la mode spots in town,
Privilege
, sweated it out in a blood-red
exotic-themed
Free Your Base
along to live bongos and rap or done some
knee-bending swings to reggae at
Babalu
or some groovy disco moves at
Soul.
Seasons metamorphose Psyrri, but the party
atmosphere never goes away. Bars and clubs are
buzzing with conversation and the enjoyment of
unique sounds – some DJs taking bar-bees on a trip
from space-age trance to hip-juggling Arabesque –
combined with genuinely sophisticated décor and
drinks. Rose-petal or chocolate champagne, weird
and wonderful shots offered on the house, icy
cocktails in unusual goblets work their magic on
regulars and first visitors alike. Even when one
has been to Psyrri an innumerable amount of times,
and regularly visits certain favorite bars and
clubs there, the variety of routes to follow in
the course of an evening seems limitless.
Depending on one’s mood – dark and introvert, wild
and restless, silent and serene, chatty and
relaxed, there are always choices, and, without
threatening the current balance of status quo
amongst existing places, new places keep
mushrooming up. With the approach of the Olympic
Games in 2004,
Athens
is speedily catching up – and in some levels is
miles ahead of – with the paradigm and reputation
set by elite cities worldwide.
The streets of Psyrri are small and winding,
cobbled and suitable for pedestrians, so simply
strolling along is an experience in itself.
Yearlong, one gets the sense of being on an
island, far away from urban enclosure but
certainly not far from the madding crowd. As
gypsies pop fragrant gardenias in your face, you
can mull your next move. Although winter is a
great time to squish into a deeply cool bar
like
Vibe
or raise the grunge level in your veins at
Mad
Club
, summertime is ideal, when one can sit out
sipping frosted, minty Caipirinhas and chatting
endlessly with friends whilst bobbing along to
whatever sound is pouring out of the chosen
bar.
Astron
and
Inoteka
are the stars of the show for this kind of funky
fun, really plucking the city out of the
city-resident
It’s important to warn readers that Psyrri has a
really dark side: It is hazardously addictive.
Beware of spending all your money or time there
because
Athens
does indeed have a great deal more to offer. The
trick, as with Psyrri, is to not carve out a
regular path for oneself but instead to let
oneself get lost in the tiny pockets of the city,
where there is always some gem of a place to be
discovered and a fresh experience to be
encountered. Greeks are famed worldwide for their
joie de vivre, any time, any day of the week.
Psyrri is a microcosmic example of the city at
large, so get moving!
A-Z of Psyrri Nightlife
Astron
Taki
3, tel: (6977)
469356
Small,
cosy and familiar, Astron, in the heart of Psyrri,
is widely appreciated for its live DJ sets and
island-like atmosphere. It is a chilled host to a
young, arty and fashionable crowd.
Babalu
Tournavitou & Sarri, tel:
210
3222297
Bringing out the child in you, Babaloo, on the
outskirts of Psyrri offers a relaxed party
atmosphere to the sounds of reggae and funk.
Free Your Base
Ermou 110 & Avliton 6-8, tel: 6932 076122
Two-storey Morroccan lounge-style atmosphere
hosting live bongo playing, rap and saxophone
acts. A bit seedy at times.
Godzilla
Riga Palamidou 5, tel: 210 3221086 Japanese restaurant in a Japanese subway setting,
offers unique varieties of sushi and other dishes,
in the summer based on what the owners have
personally fished out of the sea.
Gramophone
Museum
N. Apostoli 8, tel: 210 3231612 An interesting stroll through time, a place where
you can see gramophones from numerous periods.
Inoteka
3 Avissinias Sq., tel: 210 3246446 Set in the antiques market and actually using old
furniture for its clients in a dimly-lit
atmosphere. Electro-pop transports you to another
dimension.
Kouzina Cine
Psyrri
Sarri 40, Psirri, tel:
210 32 15
534
Set in what used to be the royal stables, this
restaurant-bar offers an intriguing variety of
Greek, Asian and
Mediterranean
cuisine, on Sundays to the invigorating sounds of
live Latin.
Mad Club
Ermou 110 & Avliton 6-8, tel: 210
3227663
Freestyle electronica, raga, dub and soft punk
music at this large and grungy club, located right
next door to Free Your Base.
Multi Culti
Ag. Theklas 8, tel: 210 3244643 Unique for being the one and only multi-cultural
restaurant on the ground floor and a record store
on the floor above.
Privilege
Ag. Eleousis 3 & Kakourgiodikeiou Psirri, tel:
010 33 17
801
The leading fashion mainstream club restaurants
draws in Athens’ crème de la crème for an warmly
plush atmosphere with a twist of 30’s glamour.
Mainstream and the best of 70s and 80s music.
Psipsina
43 Ag. Anargiron, tel: 210 3312446 A tiny and cute fish restaurant named ‘kitty cat’
with a funky décor and light-hearted staff.
Rebekkas
Miaouli
St
. Notorious for its honey-raki and trendy but
traditional kafeneion (old coffee shop)
atmosphere, Rebekka’s is perfect for a chilled
ouzo or Greek coffee.
Red Marrakech
Agatharhou 3, Psirri, tel: 010 33 17
646-8
Apart from its thrillingly exotic décor and
culinary delights, this locale will wow you with
its table-to-table Moroccan band and feisty
belly-dancers.
Soul
65 Evripidou, tel: 210 3310907 Low-key trendy New York vibe, with upstairs dance
club and flavorsome international dishes.
Taki 13
Taki 13, tel: 210 3254707
Offers authentic and tasty Greek fare, live music
and dancing. A tourist must-go.
Thirio
1 Lepeniotou All stone and wood and catacomb-like, things get
really hot and lively here to the sounds of funk
and jazz tunes.
Vanilla
37 Sarri, 210 3217117 Beaty bar fun in a neoclassical setting, also
serving creative Mediterranean food.
Vibe
1 Aristofanous, tel: 210 3244794
Minimalist Japanese décor, well-known DJs, lots of
happenings and dark lighting successfully draw in
the crowds.
Zeidoron
10 Taki & Ag. Anargyron, tel: 210 3215368 Cosy, lazy atmosphere combined with appetizing
dishes keep one
lingering
here.
Zithos
28 Karaiskaki, tel: 210 3314601-2
A grand variety of beer to be experimented with at
this modern/country style spot with a friendly
atmosphere.
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